|
In the grounds of the temple, drums and
cymbals strike up, drawing people of all ages to get up and dance.
They wave their hands and legs as if they are harvesting rice.
The festival is a modest occasion in the
town of Muang Sing in Luang Nam Tha, a province in remote northern
Laos . The district is home to 30,000 people from various ethnic
groups. Half of them are Ikor, renowned producers of textiles and
handicrafts.
In a crowd of onlookers, Dr Khamchanh introduces
us to his children Elic and Elan, a twin boy and girl. He tells
them to greet us with a nop , or traditional Lao greeting,
and explains that they are in their first year of primary school.
We strangers make the children nervous;
the boy is crying but manages to compose himself. He embraces his
mother, Dr Porm, firmly and hides behind her back.
Close by, Elic in her western clothes is
enjoying a noodle soup in a shop in front of the temple. She greets
the visitors with a lovely smile and seems at ease.
The five year-olds' laughing and crying
is a picture of innocence like that of most children in rural villages
in Laos . However, few people know that these twins have an extraordinary
tale, surviving a vicious tradition that almost had them murdered.
“These children are not really mine, they
are children of an Ikor minority couple that we adopted from,” said
Dr Khamchan, who is currently director of Muang Sing Public Health
Service.
It is sad but true that, traditionally,
when Ikor people give birth to twins, the children are immediately
killed, as people believe that they will bring disaster to the village.
So what about Elic and Elan? Of course,
they are exceptions to the rule for they were fortunate enough to
be rescued by this kind couple. “I felt pity for the children so
I decided to adopt them as my own so they would not be killed,”
said Dr Porm who is a doctor at the district hospital.
Until as little as ten years ago, the killing
of children was a common occurrence in Muang Sing district. Since
then, however, educational opportunities have improved, but the
practice is still believed to continue.
Health care campaigns supported by international
organisations like the United Nations Population Fund (UNFPA) have
been underway for many years. UNFPA has built a campaign network
through the Ministry of Public Health and Lao Women's Union to train
two volunteers in each village in reproductive health. These volunteers
explain to the villagers that having twins is common and natural.
After many years, the Ikor people have undergone
a positive change from killing twins to now giving their children
to others. However, it is not certain that children would survive
without anyone to take the twins.
An official who worked with the campaign
said in the deep jungle of Luang Nam Tha, Ikor people still strongly
believe that having twins were bad luck and would bring disaster
to the village.
“Ikor people get angry and walk away when
we mentioned twin children,” he said.
Khamchanh and his wife still recall clearly
what they were doing the day they rescued the twin babies five years
ago.
“It was noon. A man who worked as a village
volunteer for primary health care came to my house and offered me
the babies,” Dr Porm recalled. Dr Porm, who is now a district volunteer
for the UNFPA-supported project, said that she was upset and did
not know what to do since she already had two children of her own.
But she felt she had to have two more.
“At first I refused to take the children,”
Dr Porm said, adding that her family was poor and the burden of
adopting the twins was a serious one.
“The following day, the volunteer came back
to offer the children again. If I did not take the children, the
people in the village would have killed them,” she said.
As tradition dictates, Ikor people use hot
ash straight from the fireplace and throw it on the newborn children.
The parents of the twins put the babies
in a basket and take them around every house in the village. One
by one, each house throws their share of ash on the bodies of the
babies until they die. The death is slow and painful. As well as
suffering severe burns, the babies choke on the hot ash.
After a short consultation with her husband,
Dr Porm went to the village just 15 kilometres from the centre of
Muang Sing where she found the children left on the floor of their
parents' house.
“I saw the children left on the floor, lying
on a piece of towel,” Dr Porm recalled.
Even though they took the twins in by chance,
Khamchanh and Porm love Elic and Elan as their own children. They
say that the children know they are not their own parents, but the
relationship between them is a loving one.
Neither of the parents will ever tell Elic
and Elan what fate nearly befell them.
Elic one day would like to be a doctor.
“I want to be a doctor like my mother,” she said.
Mrs Porm said that despite Elic and Elan
being twins they had very different characters. Elic is obedient
while Elan is a little naughty and self-centred.
“Elan tries to do whatever he likes, however
Elic is more flexible,” she added.
Having a twin means death for the children
and banishment for the parents. Mr Khamchanh said that under normal
conditions and without the campaigns, the couple would have been
banished from the village at least three years ago. Their houses
would also have been burnt down.
Although killing babies is clearly against
the law in Lao PDR, Khamchanh said the arm of the law did not reach
all corners of the country. He added that even when authorities
in Sing district knew of cases, they found it difficult to punish
the crime. “The district authorities just warn the Ikor people not
to kill twins as it is against the law,” he said.
Now Ikor people in Muang Sing understand
more about the law as they gain access to education. However, the
future remains uncertain as the younger generation still believes
that twins bring bad luck.
“Elic and Elan's parents still keep in touch
with the children,” Khamchanh said, adding that they still love the
twins. However, they do not dare to take them back home.
|